My lessons on the wave

One of the adventures I embarked on during my holiday was surfing. Now surfing is one of those sports that is constantly challenging and always humbling for me! I have “surfed” around the world, and every time I attempt to surf I return back to the state of absolute beginner. Maybe its because no matter where you surf, the waves are always changing, the weather is always changing and your level for adaption and fear is always changing., or maybe it...